The Great Church of Ollur and the Angel Raphael - A Photo Feature
Prof.George Menachery
One remarkable feature of the Sistine (from Sixtus) Chapel
in the Vatican is that every square inch in the 133 ft. by 43
ft. rectangle - the ceiling, the mosaic floor, the wall behind
the altar, the side walls, the marble screen… is decorated with
the works of the greatest masters of the time including
Michelangelo, Pinturicchio, Ghirlandaio, Resselli, Botticelli,
Mino da Fiesole…No wonder Pontiff after Pontiff chose the
Sistine as the most suitable venue for the conclaves to elect
the Pope. The breadth-taking grandeur of the Chapel has to be
seen to be believed. |
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The Author |
There is one church in Kerala and only one church perhaps
which can claim that every inch of space in the church is
decorated, under both western and indigenous influences, with
the highest achievements of the painter, the sculptor, the
ceramics worker, the carpenter, the goldsmith, the bronze
artisan, or the architect - using every media known or
imaginable like gold, silver, iron, bronze, wood, ivory, stone
- including laterite, granite, and precious stones,… Here there
are large numbers of frescoes, murals - both Kerala and western
style murals, woodwork, metalwork, ivorywork… Of course, Ollur’s
other name Chinna Roma (Little Rome) is quite appropriate for
this and many other reasons. Our If any church in Kerala
deserves to be named a basilica (a minor basilica, that is) it
is undoubtedly this great church. If any church is to be made a
key attraction for tourists, Indian or international, the first
consideration must be given to this church. |
In an article of this sort there is no place for elaborate
descriptions and long-winded narratives, nor for many references and
notes. Hence this opportunity is used merely to rediscover for those who
already know something of this great church, and to introduce the
newcomer to, certain aspects of the Ollur Church and the Shrine of St.
Raphael the Archangel especially from the standpoint of its artistic and
architectural excellence.
At one time, especially in the 19th century and the first
three quarters of the 20th century there were only three Christian
festivals in the erstwhile Cochin State which used to attract
countrywide attention. One was the Kanjoor festival of St. Sebastian,
another was the celebration in honour of the Koratti Muthy The third
festival of State significance which used to attract tens of thousands
of devotees was the St. Raphael’s festival of Ollur popularly known as
Malakhayude Perunnal.
Ollur church is famous for the large number of exquisitely
carved sacred images in wood. According to Kuriappan Kattookkaran’s book
on the church, written a century ago, there were seventy-three statues
in the church and as many festivals. Even today some of the best-carved
statues of Kerala are to be found in this church. Today every Sunday in
the year is dedicated to the feast or festival of the Trinity, Jesus, or
an apostle, or a saint, and even so some festivals have to be observed
on week-days.
One of the reputed possessions of the church is the more
than thirty- foot tall wooden rostrum or Pushpakkoodu which
have sculptures in the round and relief of the evangelists and
saints in addition to interesting representations of the flora
and fauna of Kerala and elsewhere on it. This is perhaps the
tallest rostrum in the whole of Asia. Among other astonishingly
artistic wood carvings in the church some are to be found on the
three altars, the beams, and in the cupola.
As is the case with most churches in Kerala the St.
Anthony’s Forane Church of Ollur also is constructed on a
hill-top which is the highest location in the vicinity. Earlier
people must have reached the church climbing the steep slopes.
But today there are large flights of steps leading to the church
from various directions in addition to the sloping roads for
vehicular traffic. |
Wooden Panel, Ollur Church, ca.1825 |
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The church is surrounded by a huge protective compund wall
called Aana Mathil or Elephan(ine) wall either because of its
elephant like shape (which helps it to guard itself from the
heavy monsoon downpours characterestic of the land), or because
of its elephantine size, or use (to safeguard the church from
the fierce attacks of elephants sent by angry kings), or for a
combination of these reasons. These walls enclose in addition to
th e church itself the inner coutyard also.
Festival related and liturgical processions in Malabar are
of at least four kinds : certain pradakshinams or processions
starting near the altar end at the mukhamandapam or portico of
the church, many others, importantly, enter the courtyard and go
round the rock cross, others go round the church, still others
wind along the valley-roads surrounding the church-hill,
commencing and concluding at the foot of the rock-cross. In the
Ollur church we have processions of all these classes. But the
most important procession is in connection with
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the festival of St. Raphael the Archangel. (True, the
procession of St. Sebastian goes to many more areas than the Angel’s
procession which is restricted to the streets or angadies demarcated by
the four bridges.) The multicoloured Muthukkudas (silk Umbrellas),the
many types of Vadyams and Melams, the decorated Roopakkudus carrying
the statues of the four angels are are some of the attractions of the
great procession. The Vedikkettu or fireworks, the hawkers and vendors,
the largescale agape or Oottu, are other interesting features of the
festival. The Thullal which used to attract thousands of faithful is now
a thing of the past having been banned by the ecclesiastical authorities
some years ago.
The gold and silver crosses, the gold candlesticks, gold
kasa and pilasa, gold censers, huge bronze vessels, bells, monstances,
tabernacles… are some of the artistic works in the church in various
metals. Thr treasure of metal objects in the church perhaps exceeds any
such collection of other churches.
The Ollur church is the oldest church in the Thrissur
Corporation area and the grandest church in the Trichur Archdiocese
although certain other churches are today able to grab the limelight on
account of their location and certain accidental present-day benefits
and lucky coincidences.
Proceeding towards the church from the Padinjare Angady or
western bazaar first of all one has to climb the smaller flight of
steps. After this the flagstaff is reached. Beyond the flagstaff is the
great rock cross of Ollur. It is more than twentyfive feet in height and
is one of the best proportioned and well cut out granite crosses of
Kerala. Its monolithic main shaft is thicker than usual. The open-air
rock-cross of Malabar is an obelisk, a tall stone column, with four,
sometimes decorated, slightly stapering sides. Rome has many obelisks
(from Egypt and the East) which have been sometimes made into
cross-bearing structures decorating the piazzas and squares); London has
one on the banks of the Thames (Cleopatras Needle); Paris has one at the
place d la concorde; and even New York has one in the central park. Many
memorials like the Washington Memorial are obelisk-shaped. The Asoka
Pillar and other such Indian pillars must have been inspired by the
Graeco-Parthians, under Egyptian-Persian influence. The Nazraney sthamba
is a direct descendant of the obelisk.,and much closer to it than the
other Indian pillars - in shape, method of constuction and transportaion,
method of erection, function, and solar symbolism. The Roman obelisk,
bearing crosses today, have been converted to Christianity, while
Keralas cross-shaped obelisks were born Christian.The obelus and the
double-dagger reference marks in printing may be profitably recalled
here.
The three-tier gabled indigenous architecture of Kerala
churches, which lacked facades until the coming of the
Portuguese, immensely gains in richness, symmetry, and beauty
because of the open-air rock crosses, some of them more than 30
feet in height including the intricately carved pedestals, and
monolithic shafts. No other community in Kerala has such a huge
monumental stone structure, and no other Christianity has such a
universal and huge emblem in front of the churches. The indoor
counterparts of these crosses have the earliest carvings in
Kerala of the national flower lotus and the national bird
peacock. Perhaps even the national animal tiger is first
depicted in Kerala art in church sculpture. There was no rock
carving in South India prior to the period of these indoor
crosses. The motifs, message , and images on these crosses and
their pedestals display a remarkable degree of Indianness and
Malayalee Thanima or identity.
A unique feature of the church is the number and variety of
the angel images in the church. There are more than five
thousand images of angels in the church – in fresco, mural,
wood, plaster, stone, metal, ivory and many other media. The
paintings in the church which cover an area of thousands of
square feet are the pride of Kerala’s artists and Kerala’s
Christianity. |
Rock Out -
door Cross of Ollur |
Old St. Raphael's Church- now
cemetery |
The seven storey belfry of the church was it is said the
tallest structure in South India at the time it was constructed.
It must be a matter of pride for the students and staff of
the Holy Angel’s School that their institution has its name from
the great miracle-working angel of the Ollur Church - the parish
church of fully three thousand five hundred families today even
after giving birth to many daughter parishes - who is considered
the patron saint of the about-to-be-marrieds and the newly-marrieds,
of couples in general, of travelers and wayfarers, of the blind
and the sick, of those who have lost wealth or objects, and of
course of the devil-afflicted. |
[There are a number of books, souvenirs, journals which
give additional information on the St. Anthony’s Forane Church, Ollur
and St. Raphael the Archangel – which can be consulted in the office of
the Manager of the Holy Angel’s EMBHS. The author is the chief editor of
the St. Thomas Christian Encyclopaedia of India, The Thomapedia, The
Indian Church History Classics - The Nazranies etc. and Chairman of the
Silver Jubilee Souvenir Committee]
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