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		The Great Church of Ollur and the Angel Raphael - A Photo Feature 
		
		Prof.George Menachery 
		
			
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				One remarkable feature of the Sistine (from Sixtus) Chapel 
				in the Vatican is that every square inch in the 133 ft. by 43 
				ft. rectangle - the ceiling, the mosaic floor, the wall behind 
				the altar, the side walls, the marble screen… is decorated with 
				the works of the greatest masters of the time including 
				Michelangelo, Pinturicchio, Ghirlandaio, Resselli, Botticelli, 
				Mino da Fiesole…No wonder Pontiff after Pontiff chose the 
				Sistine as the most suitable venue for the conclaves to elect 
				the Pope. The breadth-taking  grandeur of the Chapel has to be 
				seen to be believed.   | 
				
				 
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				The Author  | 
				
				 
				There is one church in Kerala and only one church perhaps 
				which can claim that every inch of space in the church is 
				decorated, under both western and indigenous influences, with 
				the highest achievements of the painter, the sculptor, the 
				ceramics worker, the carpenter, the goldsmith, the bronze 
				artisan, or the architect - using every media known or 
				imaginable like gold, silver, iron,  bronze, wood, ivory, stone 
				- including laterite, granite, and precious stones,… Here there 
				are large numbers of frescoes, murals - both Kerala and western 
				style murals, woodwork, metalwork, ivorywork… Of course, Ollur’s 
				other name Chinna Roma (Little Rome) is quite appropriate for 
				this and many other reasons. Our If any church in Kerala 
				deserves to be named a basilica (a minor basilica, that is) it 
				is undoubtedly this great church. If any church is to be made a 
				key attraction for tourists, Indian or international, the first 
				consideration must be given to this church.     | 
			 
		 
		
		In an article of this sort there is no place for elaborate 
		descriptions and long-winded narratives, nor for many references and 
		notes. Hence this opportunity is used merely to rediscover for those who 
		already know something of this great church, and to introduce the 
		newcomer to, certain aspects of the Ollur Church and the Shrine of St. 
		Raphael the Archangel especially from the standpoint of its artistic and 
		architectural  excellence. 
		
		At one time, especially in the 19th  century and  the first 
		three quarters of the 20th century there were only three Christian 
		festivals in the erstwhile Cochin State which used to attract 
		countrywide attention. One was the Kanjoor festival of St. Sebastian, 
		another was the celebration in honour of the Koratti Muthy The third 
		festival of State significance which used to attract tens of thousands 
		of devotees was the St. Raphael’s festival of Ollur popularly known as 
		Malakhayude Perunnal.  
		
		Ollur church is famous for the large number of exquisitely 
		carved sacred images in wood. According to Kuriappan Kattookkaran’s book 
		on the church, written a century ago, there were seventy-three statues 
		in the church and as many festivals. Even today some of the best-carved 
		statues of Kerala are to be found in this church.  Today every Sunday in 
		the year is dedicated to the feast or festival of the Trinity, Jesus, or 
		an apostle, or a saint, and even so some festivals have to be observed 
		on week-days. 
		
			
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				One of the reputed possessions of the church is the more 
				than thirty- foot tall wooden rostrum or Pushpakkoodu  which 
				have sculptures in the round and relief of the evangelists and 
				saints in addition to interesting representations of the flora 
				and fauna of Kerala and elsewhere on it. This is perhaps the 
				tallest rostrum in the whole of Asia. Among other astonishingly 
				artistic wood carvings in the church some are to be found on the 
				three altars, the beams, and in the cupola. 
				
				As is the case with most churches in Kerala the St. 
				Anthony’s Forane Church of Ollur also is constructed on a 
				hill-top  which is the highest location in the vicinity. Earlier 
				people must have reached the church climbing the steep slopes. 
				But today there are large flights of steps leading to the church 
				from various directions in addition to the sloping roads for 
				vehicular traffic.   | 
				
				 
				  
				Wooden Panel, Ollur Church, ca.1825  | 
			 
		 
		
			
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				The church is surrounded by a huge protective compund wall 
				called Aana Mathil  or Elephan(ine) wall either because of its 
				elephant like shape (which helps it to guard itself from the 
				heavy monsoon downpours characterestic of the land), or because 
				of its elephantine size, or use (to safeguard the church from 
				the fierce attacks of elephants sent by angry kings), or for a 
				combination of these reasons. These walls enclose in addition to 
				th  e church itself the inner coutyard also.        
				
				Festival related and liturgical processions in Malabar are 
				of at least four kinds : certain pradakshinams or processions 
				starting near the altar end at the mukhamandapam or portico of 
				the church, many others, importantly, enter the courtyard and go 
				round the rock cross, others go round the church, still others 
				wind along the valley-roads surrounding the church-hill, 
				commencing and concluding at the foot of the rock-cross. In the 
				Ollur church we have processions of all these classes. But the 
				most important procession is in connection  with 
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		the festival of St. Raphael the Archangel. (True, the 
		procession of St. Sebastian goes to many more areas than the Angel’s 
		procession which is restricted to the streets or angadies demarcated by 
		the four bridges.) The multicoloured Muthukkudas (silk Umbrellas),the 
		many types of Vadyams and Melams, the decorated Roopakkudus  carrying 
		the statues of the four angels are are some of the attractions of the 
		great procession. The Vedikkettu or fireworks, the hawkers and vendors, 
		the largescale agape or Oottu, are other interesting features of the 
		festival. The Thullal which used to attract thousands of faithful is now 
		a thing of the past having been banned by the ecclesiastical authorities 
		some years ago. 
		
		The gold and silver crosses, the gold candlesticks, gold 
		kasa and pilasa, gold censers, huge bronze  vessels, bells, monstances, 
		tabernacles… are some of the artistic works in the church in various 
		metals. Thr treasure of metal objects in the church perhaps exceeds any 
		such collection of other churches.  
		
		The Ollur church is the oldest  church in the Thrissur 
		Corporation area and the grandest church in the Trichur Archdiocese 
		although certain other churches are today able to grab the limelight on 
		account of their location and certain accidental present-day benefits 
		and lucky coincidences.   
		
		Proceeding towards the church from the Padinjare Angady  or 
		western bazaar first of all one has to climb the smaller flight of 
		steps. After this the flagstaff is reached. Beyond the flagstaff is the 
		great rock cross of Ollur. It is more than twentyfive feet in height and 
		is one of the best proportioned and well cut out granite crosses of 
		Kerala. Its monolithic main shaft is thicker than usual. The open-air 
		rock-cross of Malabar is an obelisk, a tall stone column, with four, 
		sometimes decorated, slightly stapering sides. Rome has many obelisks 
		(from Egypt and the East) which have been sometimes made into 
		cross-bearing structures decorating the piazzas and squares); London has 
		one on the banks of the Thames (Cleopatras Needle); Paris has one at the 
		place d la concorde; and even New York has one in the central park. Many 
		memorials like the Washington Memorial are obelisk-shaped. The Asoka 
		Pillar and other such Indian pillars must have been inspired by the 
		Graeco-Parthians, under Egyptian-Persian influence. The Nazraney sthamba 
		is a direct descendant of the obelisk.,and much closer to it than the 
		other Indian pillars - in shape, method of constuction and transportaion, 
		method of erection, function, and solar symbolism. The Roman obelisk, 
		bearing crosses today, have been converted to Christianity, while 
		Keralas cross-shaped obelisks were born Christian.The obelus and the 
		double-dagger reference marks in printing may be profitably recalled 
		here.  
		
			
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				The three-tier gabled indigenous architecture of Kerala 
				churches, which lacked facades until the coming of the 
				Portuguese, immensely gains in richness, symmetry, and beauty 
				because of the open-air rock crosses, some of them more than 30 
				feet in height including the intricately carved pedestals, and 
				monolithic shafts. No other community in Kerala has such a huge 
				monumental stone structure, and no other Christianity has such a 
				universal and huge emblem in front of the churches. The indoor 
				counterparts of these crosses have the earliest carvings in 
				Kerala of the national flower lotus and the national bird 
				peacock. Perhaps even the national animal tiger is first 
				depicted in Kerala art in church sculpture. There was no rock 
				carving in South India prior to the period of these indoor 
				crosses. The motifs, message , and images on these crosses and 
				their pedestals display a remarkable degree of Indianness and 
				Malayalee Thanima or identity. 
				
				A unique feature of the church is the number and variety of 
				the angel images in the church. There are more than five 
				thousand images of angels in the church – in fresco, mural, 
				wood, plaster, stone, metal, ivory and many other media. The 
				paintings in the church which cover an area of thousands of 
				square feet are the pride of Kerala’s artists and Kerala’s 
				Christianity.  | 
				
				 
				  
				
				 Rock Out - 
				door Cross of Ollur  | 
			 
		 
		
			
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				Old St. Raphael's Church- now 
				cemetery  | 
				
				 
				The seven storey belfry of the church was it is said the 
				tallest structure in South India at the time it was constructed.
				 
				
				It must be a matter of pride for the students and staff of 
				the Holy Angel’s School that their institution has its name from 
				the great miracle-working angel of the Ollur Church - the parish 
				church of fully three thousand five hundred families today even 
				after giving birth to many daughter parishes - who is considered 
				the patron saint of  the about-to-be-marrieds and the newly-marrieds, 
				of couples in general, of travelers and wayfarers, of the blind 
				and the sick, of those who have lost wealth or objects, and of 
				course of  the devil-afflicted.   | 
			 
		 
		
		[There are a number of books, souvenirs, journals which 
		give additional information on the St. Anthony’s Forane Church, Ollur 
		and St. Raphael the Archangel – which can be consulted in the office of 
		the Manager of the Holy Angel’s EMBHS. The author is the chief editor of 
		the St. Thomas Christian Encyclopaedia of India, The Thomapedia, The 
		Indian Church History Classics - The Nazranies etc. and Chairman of the 
		Silver Jubilee Souvenir Committee] 
		
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